That seems a good question after a week of hopping the streetcars that run along St. Charles Avenue in New Orleans.
We were there a bit before Katrina, Mary on business and me on a lark. (The St. Charles line, knocked out completely for a year, reopened fully in December.) Anyway, it can be frustrating: waiting for the next trolley, not knowing if it’ll be too jammed with tourists and commuters to accommodate even one more. Or whether it will wear an out-of-service sign or bring a wave-off from a crabby, overwhelmed driver told by a crabby, flow-conscious supervisor to leave passengers for the next streetcar.
Then there’s Alex. Just Alex, thank you.
“This your first time riding the streetcar?”
What’s the tipoff? Our “we’re not from around here” accents? The fact that we don’t have exact change for the fare ($1.25)? Our jackets? (When it’s early spring and still chilly in Maryland, it can be summer hot in New Orleans.)
“Come on aboard,” he says as we excitedly climb on.
Alex shakes down passengers for change for our $10 bill and instructs us to stay up front for his own tour of St. Charles Avenue. A trip it will be. He lowers a front window to let in a breeze and begins.
“That house up there … Ann Rice sold it for $800,000. The lady who bought it’s already put in another $200,000.” The word “thousand” sliding off his tongue sounds like “tao san.”
“I’ll show you the house where the guy gives me a dirty look every day. Turned his Cadillac in front of me one morning,” Alex says, his shrug giving us a good guess at the outcome. We pass the house, at which sits a Mercedes Benz coupe and remark that the fellow apparently didn’t make out too badly in the, um, exchange. “Now, every morning, he looks for me before he crosses the street. Gives me a big scowl. I just wave.”
Alex is getting on a roll, and so is the streetcar, which blows past a requested stop. “Hey!” comes an exasperated yell from the back. Alex acts like he doesn’t notice. He gets the next one, meaning the guy in the back is really only about a block from his preferred stop. So sue him.
There are 58 potential stops each way along the 13.2-mile St. Charles route, at least there were before the hurricane. The railbed, set in the middle of St. Charles Avenue, gives joggers a perfect path, so long as they stay alert. In 25-odd years, Alex has been alert to it all. We pass antebellum mansions, monuments, Loyola and Tulane universities, the amazing Audubon Zoological Gardens, shopping centers. Block after block, Alex regales us with property listings, restaurant reviews … and stories!
“There’s this one lady who waves to me, Miss Yvonne LaFleur. Rode my car every day. Her perfume made my car smell so nice. Tiny waist. Looked like Joan Crawford.” He traces an hourglass figure with his hands.
“She’s got a dress shop. I’ll show you it as we go by.”
A day later, captivated by the tale, we’ll go into the dress shop and get a whiff of the lady’s personal scent, La Fleur, which she has bottled. Whoa. It’s clear the hourglass figure numbed Alex’s nose.
Or perhaps it was his coulda, woulda, shoulda career as a boxer. (“I had 20 fights: 17 amateur, three pro.”) As a young man on the eve of fighting for the Golden Gloves championship, Alex made the mistake of buying a buddy’s pledge that they’d be home from one quick drink at a nightclub before midnight. The guy was his ride. “I’m in training, I told the guy.” But he went. By 3:30 a.m., his boxing career was as good as over. Seems that long about 3 a.m., the guy was finally ready to drive Alex home.
“I’m not saying nothing,” Alex remembers. “I’m steaming. He’s got a Mustang. There are four of us in there. He drops me off and I walk over to his door, pull him out of the car and I hit him … Boom! Then I hit him again. He starts going down and I’m lining up this big roundhouse and … Bang! I catch my hand on the roof of the car …”
Alex holds up the gnarled ring finger of his thick right hand.
In fighting shape still in his 50s, Alex shrugs off the bad break, instead speaking with pride of having discovered the young kid who’d replace him at the Golden Gloves and go on to a respectable middleweight pro career. Besides, Alex has a tour to give.
“This house here … lady who owned it put in two pools. One for the kids, one for the dogs.”
Often, as he speaks, Alex raises a gloved hand to his cheek, as if to keep this just between us. And we do feel like we’re the only ones on the streetcar.
On the tourists who fill the streetcars to bursting (oops): “The regular riders … at busy times, two, three full cars go past. You can see ’em. They’re mad. You know they’re gonna come on complaining, ‘Damn tourists this, damn tourists that.’
On a supervisor who tells him he needs to make an extra run before calling it a day: “Hey, Mama’s got red beans and rice in the pot!”
By the end of the line, we’re so charmed that we slip him a $20 tip, thanking him for making our first ride so magical. Alex shoos the other passengers past us toward a queue of riders waiting for a car heading in the opposite direction. Many had gotten on only one stop before, expecting to ride this car back. Gotta get off first, Alex says. Us?
“Stay on if you like.”
We like.
There are a few minutes to chat before the streetcar in front of us clears out. Alex turns around in his chair, beefy arms draped over the seat back. He has a tanned face, a salt-and-pepper goatee and wraparound shades he started wearing after years of sunshine through the windshield gave him cataracts. We ask about the cars.
The electric streetcars on St. Charles Avenue (900 Series Perley Thomas, built in High Point, N.C., in the 1920s) have operator stations at both ends. Rather than turn around, the driver simply stops at the end of the line, gets out, detaches a “trolley pole” on one end of the car from the above power line and connects the pole at the car’s other end. The engines are thus reversed. The seatbacks, with their distressed mahogany finish like the old chairs of grade school, simply slide toward whichever side is now the back of the car. Alex lets me and Mary switch them, which we do giddily as the folks waiting outside glare at us like: “Where do those two get off?”
Alex shows us how the gears work; the air brakes too. (Someday he should gives his fellow drivers the lesson.)
At last, he’s ready to roll and the waiting riders climb on. If they’re giving us dirty looks, we’re having way too much fun to notice. And as soon as we’re moving, Alex picks up where he left off. We pass a prestigious prep school: “You gotta sign your girls up as soon as they’re born.”
The Hotel Pontchartrain: “Liz Taylor’s favorite place. She always stays there.”
Our final stop comes much too soon. We sadly say goodbye and get one more restaurant recommendation — breakfast at the Please-U (wow!) — and reach to shake Alex’s hand. He pulls back. “Dirty glove … can’t shake with that.” He tosses it on the dashboard. A press of the flesh, then streetcar and driver are on their merry way.
We never bump into Alex again as we ride the St. Charles line the rest of the week. Soon enough we’re back to being passed by, waved off or curtly instructed to get our rear ends off a loaded streetcar. (“We’re on a schedule!”)
No Desire.
Just Alex. And a memory worth “tao sans.”